Tahiti, Moorea & Bora Bora

September 2008
By Barbara Waterbury
Whenever I thought of Tahiti, Moorea & Bora
Bora, the one word that always came to mind was
“paradise”. I recently had the opportunity to
travel there with American Express Vacations,
and found first hand that it is indeed…
”Paradise”.
Tahiti is halfway between California and Australia in the middle of the South
Pacific. Tahiti and her Islands, also known as French Polynesia, are all of volcanic or
coral origin. Tahiti is the main island and largest of French Polynesia. I flew on Air
Tahiti Nui into Papette, Tahiti. Flights depart daily from Los Angeles late evening
non-stop to Papette. Being on the same side of the International Date Line as
North America, you arrive in Papette that same night. When traveling to Tahiti,
most flights arrive and depart in the late evening. The currency used is the French
Pacific Franc. French and Tahitian are the official languages, but English is spoken
and understood in the tourist areas.
Upon arrival at Tahiti’s FAA’A Airport, we were greeted by local musicians
welcoming us to their island. Clearing customs went quickly. Once outside the
customs area, we were again welcomed with a tropical lei greeting. Our transfer to
our hotel, the InterContinental Resort Tahiti, was just a short ride. The main
hotels are all near the airport and are on white sand beaches, whereas the rest of
the island is known for their black sand beaches. Tahiti, the largest and most
populated of the French Polynesia islands, is shaped like a figure eight with its
larger part Tahiti Nui (which means big) and Tahiti Iti (little). The 70 mile drive
around the island will take about two hours. Highlights to see are the Tahiti and
Her Islands Museum, which is dedicated to Polynesian history and culture, or the
Paul Gauguin Museum, which tells his story and love affair for Tahiti and displays
copies of his work. None of his original paintings are kept there. Teahupoo, located
on Tahiti Iti, is one of the best surf spots in the world. Every year the best
surfers of the world come here for the Billabong Pro. The waves here are
considered some of the most beautiful waves in the world. Also be sure to stop at
the Marche, the public market in Papeete, where you will find tropical fruits,
vegetables, fresh fish, and Tahitian crafts. And don’t forget the Black Pearl, which
is indigenous to French Polynesia; one must not leave before shopping for a Tahitian
Black Pearl.
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The InterContinental Resort Tahiti is a 4.5 star resort, with its own private beach,
beautiful landscaped grounds and gorgeous views of Moorea. This Polynesian-style
resort has a variety of rooms to choose from such as: Garden View, Lagoon View,
Panoramic Room or Overwater Bungalows. My room was a Panoramic Room which was
quite large and offered a great view of the infinity pool across the Sea of Moons to
Moorea. I especially enjoyed the spectacular view while sitting on my terrace in
the early morning and evenings. A special feature of
staying in an Overwater Bungalow is having breakfast
delivered by an outrigger canoe. The Aquatica Dive
Center is also located on the grounds, along with a
Lagoonarium, tennis courts and two pools - one of which
is a sand-bottomed infinity pool, which includes Le
Lotus, the swim-up bar. It’s a great place to sip on a
drink and look out on the water and watch the canoe racers go by. In the morning
stop by the Lagoonarium to help take part in feeding the fish, or take a jog around
the property along the one-mile jogging path.
The InterContinental Resort Tahiti includes two restaurants. Tiare, the main
restaurant, is authentic Tahitian in décor and has an extensive menu that ranges
from light snacks to local specialties, and offers continuous service for breakfast,
lunch and dinner. The Lotus Restaurant is a gourmet overwater restaurant serving
both lunch and dinner. While you dine over the lagoon waters, you are treated to a
romantic atmosphere and beautiful views of Moorea. I also dined one evening at
Mango Café located in Papeete, which is known for its contemporary French cuisine
and extensive range of wines. My meal was delicious and I would definitely
recommend dining there.
Other hotels in Tahiti that I visited and did site inspections:
- Le Meridian Tahiti
- Sheraton Tahiti
- Sofitel Tahiti Resort
My next stop was Moorea, a 30 minute catamaran ride from Papeete. The
catamaran offers food service and a sun deck to enjoy the view of the beautiful
turquoise water. Upon arrival in Moorea you first notice all the jagged peaks rising
up and lush green vegetation on the mountain sides. The 45 minute drive along the
costal road to our hotel, the InterContinental Moorea Resort & Spa, was
picturesque, with beautiful blue water on one side and the mountains on the other.
The InterContinental Moorea Resort & Spa is a four star resort, set on 27 acres of
tropical gardens located between the mountains and the lagoon. The resort has a
wide range of complimentary activities, such as snorkeling, kayaking, tennis, and is
also home to the Moorea Dolphin Center. Also, be on the lookout for the days when
the locals come to the resort and set up tables and sell their arts and crafts. I
purchased a beautiful painting from a local artist of the Bora Bora Lagoon. There
also are several beaches around the resort where you could always find a quiet spot
to relax. The rooms here range from Lanai Rooms in the main hotel to Overwater
Suite Bungalows where you have your
own private balcony and direct access
into the lagoon. The Overwater
Bungalows here were the first of their
kind and are perched on the edge of the
water. The bungalows include a
separate sitting area, bedroom and
large bathroom. It was great fun to
watch the outrigger canoes deliver
breakfast to bungalows and to be able to climb down my ladder and go snorkeling
right off my Overwater Bungalow. The snorkeling was incredible. Fish everywhere
you turn and many places to explore and look for more. There are many different
species of fish, along with sting rays and beautiful coral to view. Also make sure
you stop for a visit to the turtle pen. Watching the sunset over the lagoon is a
perfect way to end the day. The next morning we went on a half day Circle Island
Tour. One of the highlights is the Belvedere Lookout, which offers one of the best
views of Moorea and gives panoramic views of the twin bays, Opunohu and Cook’s
Bay, and Mount Rotui. The tour drives through pineapple fields along with a stop at
a Fruit Juice Factory where you may sample juices and liquors made from islandgrown
fruits. Another highlight was our visit to a “marea” (ancient temple).
The InterContinental Resort & Spa Moorea offers two restaurants. The Fare Hana
Restaurant, which offers both inside and outside dining by the pool for breakfast,
lunch and dinner, serves light meals to exotic dishes. The Fare Nui is an open-air
gourmet restaurant, with its rotunda and terrace overlooking the lagoon. It is here
that you will also find a daily buffet breakfast.
Moorea is a beautiful island to explore and should not be missed.
Other hotels in Moorea that I visited and did site inspections:
- Moorea Pearl
- Sofitel Morea
- Sheraton Moorea
From Moorea it is less than an hour flight to Bora Bora, and as you approach the
island the view is spectacular. Looking down at the reef surrounding the island with
all the motu’s (small islands) the brilliant blue color of the water is amazing. The
airport at Bora Bora is unique as it is located on a motu and you must go by boat to
the main island or to surrounding motus. After claiming my luggage and exiting the
airport I boarded the hotel’s yacht and was served light refreshments during the
15 minute ride to the resort. During my stay on Bora Bora, I had the opportunity to
stay at both the Bora Bora Nui Resort & Spa and the St. Regis Resort Bora Bora,
which are both 5 star resorts.
Bora Bora Nui Resort & Spa is located on Motu Toopua.
When arriving at the resort, the lobby and front desk
sits on a dock over the water and is where your yacht
will dock. While you are checking in you can feed the
hundreds of fish in the water beneath you from the
large basket of bread that is left out. The types of
rooms include: Lagoon View Suites, Hillside Spa Villas,
Beach Villas, Horizon Overwater Villas and Overwater Villas. My room was a
Horizon Overwater Villa, with a view of both the water and resort. The villas are
very large and spacious, with a living room, separate bedroom with a canopy bed,
huge bathroom with his and her sinks on opposite walls, along with a separate rain
shower and bathtub. A unique feature in the living room are the end tables that lift
open so you can feed the fish – so be sure to bring some bread with you from the
lobby. The private deck off both the living room and bedroom is wonderful to relax
on, feed the fish or just enjoy the beautiful view. Snorkeling here is excellent and
an extra nice touch was the snorkel equipment that is left in the closet. The
Mandara Spa is atop the volcanic cliff along with the Spa Villas. The Spa Villas have
the best views – both of Bora Bora and the resort. It is also a favorite spot at
night for the sunset. A great feature of staying in one of the Spa Villas is you also
receive one daily spa treatment per guest. I did not use the spa services, but
talked with several guests that did and they raved about it. The resort grounds are
spread out and beautiful with many flowering trees and shrubs. There are paved
paths to get around either by walking or asking for a ride on one of the carts. The
infinity pool looks out over the white-sand beach.
The Bora Bora Nui has two restaurants. The Iriatai is their fine-dining, panoramic
restaurant that serves breakfast and gourmet dinner featuring Polynesium
specialties. The Tamure Grill, located adjacent to the infinity pool and beach,
offers casual dining for both lunch and dinner. What also makes the Tamure unique
and fun is the sand floor – dine with your feet in the sand. Also, once a week they
have a wonderful buffet and Tahitian dance show that should not be missed. And
be sure to start or end your evening with a stop at the Upa Upa Bar, where you can
enjoy stunning panoramic views of the sunset and the resort.
Another great feature of this resort is its own private motu Tapu - a wonderful
spot to go have a picnic lunch. And not to be missed is the fascinating photo
collection of U.S. Marines building the airstrip on Motu Mute during World War II.
The Bora Bora Nui Resort & Spa had a warm, friendly feeling. I thoroughly enjoyed
my stay and would definitely recommend it.
The St. Regis Resort, which is located on Motu Ome’e and
is spread over 44 acres, offers spectacular views of the
main island of Bora Bora and Mount Otemanu – the main
island’s largest mountain. The majority of the rooms are
Overwater Villas, but you can also choose a Pool Beach
Villa, which gives you your own plunge pool and direct beach
access. My room was a beautiful Deluxe Overwater One Bedroom Villa with many
floor-to-ceiling windows and a great view of the main island. These villas are very
large (1550 sq. ft.), and are said to be the largest in
the South Pacific. Each villa has a separate
bedroom, living room with a viewing window in the
floor, large bathroom with separate tub and shower.
The bathroom had several nice features such as a
viewing window in the floor and the middle vanity
mirrors that open to the bedroom allowing a view of
the deck and water. I especially enjoyed the open
shower with a large sliding window enclosed by a privacy fence gives you the feeling
of being outdoors. Both the bedroom and living room open up to a large private
deck with a viewing window in the floor, along with a table under a covered gazebo
and a lower platform leading into the water. Another nice feature was the fresh
water shower on the platform to rinse off. The waters around the villas are deep
and a brilliant sparkling blue which makes you want to dive right in. One noticeable
difference was a lack of coral which resulted in little or no fish in the water.
And not to be forgotten is the St. Regis Butler Service. All villas have a “butler”
button on the phone and they are available to assist you with any request.
This resort is spread out and a great way to get around it is to reserve one of the
bicycles. I had a lot fun exploring the resort on one of their bicycles. Or if you
prefer you can always ask for a ride on one of the golf carts. The resort has
beautiful beaches and two pools. The central pool by the main beach, where you will
find the Aparmia Bar, includes a swim-up bar. The adult-only Oasis pool, with a
beautiful waterfall and Mount Otemanu in the backdrop, is located in the center of
the Overwater Villas. The Spa Miri Miri is set on its own private island surrounded
by the Lagoonarium and was the best place for snorkeling.
St. Regis has three restaurants. The Lagoon, which is suspended over the water
with wonderful views of Mount Otemanu and is known as one of the finest in all of
French Polynesia, and is open for lunch and dinner. The Te-Pahu, a Mediterranean
Grill, features an open kitchen and beachside dining and serves breakfast, lunch and
dinner. Sushi Take Restaurant is Bora Bora’s first sushi restaurant and is set
within a bamboo garden.
If you’re looking for luxury, look no further than The St. Regis Resort. I would
highly recommend it.
I did take the hotel boat to the main town of Vaiape for a short visit. The
downtown area was a block long and shopping for black pearls at Robert Wan was
the main attraction. I did not venture out and explore the island any further. If
you plan to have dinner in town it’s important to make sure you don’t miss the last
shuttle back to your resort. Also, since dining in French Polynesia can be expensive,
I strongly recommend a dining plan.
The highlight of my trip was a shark and stingray snorkel excursion. We went out
to a reef and stood where our guide fed black tipped sharks and large stingrays.
The stingrays were very playful and would swim all around you so you could touch
and pet them. The sharks did not come as close, they kept their distance and
circled around us. Later, our guide took us to a deeper spot to snorkel and look for
large sharks. There were so many fish at this spot, and it didn’t take long to spot
two large sharks swimming below us. It really was a very exciting experience that I
will remember forever, although in hind site I’m not sure if I would be the one in
the water again with the sharks below us!
Another wonderful experience I had was going to the Turtle Sanctuary at the Le
Meridien Bora Bora. It is the only one of its kind in French Polynesia. The Green
Turtle and the Overlapped Turtle are native to French Polynesia and are both in
danger of extinction, and this one-of-kind nursery has been set up for their
protection and care until they are grown and healthy
and can be released back into the ocean. The hotel
offers educational presentations and you can also
swim with the turtles. You can even become a
Godparent like I did to “Aito”, a green sea turtle.
Even now that I’m home I can follow her growth
from a submarine web cam of the lagoon.
It is no wonder that Bora Bora has been called the most beautiful island in the
world and the most romantic island in the world. The water is absolutely beautiful.
When you look out on the water you may see four or five different shades of blue.
The resorts themselves are a major part of your experience. With many resorts to
choose from, each with their unique characteristics, you are sure to find your
perfect fit.
Other hotels in Bora Bora that I did site inspections on were:
- Bora Bora Lagoon
- Four Seasons
- InterContinental Thalasso
- Le Meridian Bora Bora
French Polynesia is the perfect place to do everything or nothing at all. It is known
for its world-class diving, warm and pristine waters, clear lagoons and coral gardens.
There are so many activities and excursions to choose from, there is truly
something for everyone. It’s an ideal destination for a honeymoon, anniversary or
for that perfect relaxing vacation. I know that I am already looking forward to
another visit!